All of a sudden, it seems, the stone fruit is in the market. We have peaches, plums, apricots–and big, sloping piles of bright red cherries. The cherry season is short, and very sweet. And while we have a cherry pitter, and sometimes use it (ice cream, tarts, once in a red wine reduction for lamb), the cherries rarely last long enough to make it into something as complicated as a recipe.
I’m all about simple, these days, and letting my children experience food in its whole, pure state, so when the cherries come home on Sunday I pour them into a big glass bowl and set them in the middle of our home’s Command Central (aka the Kitchen Table) with a small bowl of water for rinsing and a smaller bowl for pits. We have an open floor plan, so all day long the kids & their friends & Kory and I pick, dip, & eat. On Memorial Day they were ravaged before, during, and after dinner as the kids carried the three bowls back and forth from appetizer to dinner to dessert table.
They’re a snack, of course, but because we eat only what’s in season at our local market things like cherries feel like a rare treat. This is one of the great things about eating locally and seasonally. On the one hand, things taste the way they should–& impeccably fresh–but it’s also exciting every time something new shows up. And yes, they are expensive. At $5-7/lb they cost us. But I think it’s worth it to have such an excellent snack to binge on for a few days, and in the long run, that $7 is teaching the kids about many, many things besides how great cherries taste. And it’s keeping them healthy. With seasonal eating, we appreciate each crop all the more, we look forward to each new harvest, and we really do celebrate every mouthful. Even Ella and Finn know that they’re getting something special.
The cherries, on the other hand, are lucky if they see Tuesday morning.
In the last couple days, I’ve experienced one of those funny swirls of coincidence that crop up sometimes: we received fava beans in our mystery produce box; before I could cook them, we happened to eat some grilled at a local restaurant; the next day, my email update from Heidi Swanson’s 101 Cookbooks blog offered a recipe for grilled fava beans.
The universe was telling me to grill fava beans.
However the grill, which turned out to be out of propane, was telling me to do something else with them.
Tony reminded me that roasting is a fine substitute for grilling, so that is what I did. You lose that nice smoky flavor that the grill imbues, but the beans are still incredibly tasty. Almost as important, this method of cooking the beans takes the effort of shucking and peeling the beans out of the kitchen (or wherever you prep your food) and onto the dining room table (or wherever you gather to eat). Prepping raw fava beans can be pretty labor intensive (shucking, blanching, peeling), and while it’s certainly something you can do with your kids, or delegate to them entirely, when my kids do it, they wind up eating all the beans raw and not leaving me any to cook. So this gets the cooking done fast, and then whatever’s left over of the roasted beans can be pureed into a delicious spread or thrown into a salad, a pasta or a risotto.
Preheat the oven to 425. Rinse the fava beans and spread them out on a roasting pan with a generous splash of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and maybe some hot pepper flakes, to taste.
Roast, stirring once, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are blistered and tender. Toss them into a bowl and eat. We found them so tender (and the roasted skins so salty and delicious) that we ate them pods and all, but you can also pop the beans out, of course, and just eat those.
Ever since we found a bunch of agretti in our mystery box, I have been wanting, naturally, to make agretti spaghetti. But somehow the stars aligned toward an Asian treatment first: steamed rice, caramelized golden tofu, and blanched agretti tossed with sesame oil and sesame seeds. The saltiness of the agretti complemented the sweet tofu really nicely, and Ben (who is not the kind of picky eater who disdains greens) ate several servings.
Tonight, then, I had my chance to make the happily rhyming agretti spaghetti. I blanched it for a few minutes (if I’d thought of it, I just would have thrown it in the pot with the pasta for the last 3-4 minutes), then tossed it in the pasta with some cannellini beans, olive oil, and grated cheese:
For more information about this crisp, salty green, follow this link; if you happen to find agretti at your market, there are some more good-looking recipes over at Kitchen Gadget Girl.
Learning to eat isn’t just for the kids in our house. Recently we’ve taken to picking up a bi-weekly “mystery box” from a local farmer. She comes to the city to make restaurant deliveries, and makes her extra produce available to those who are willing to pick up an unpredictable assortment. The benefit to us is that for $25, we generally wind up with over $50 worth of fabulous fresh vegetables, some of which we have never seen before. So then it’s a little homework for me as I figure out what to do with the bounty. Our recent mystery box included cardoons and agretti; I knew that from the list tucked into our pile, but had to do a quick Google image search to match each vegetable with its name, and then do a little more research to figure out what to do with them.
Cardoons look somewhat like celery:
The various sources I found advised peeling off the tough outer strings and then blanching them; prepping them only took a couple minutes, after which they looked like this:
They taste rather like artichoke — a mild, sweet flavor — so I tossed together a quick pasta with marcona almonds, lemon zest, and olives (green olives would have been prettier, but I didn’t happen to have any):
My picky boys are these days more interested in brand new things than the old familiar foods, so they tried this eagerly, and although they probably wound up eating more of the almonds and olives than the cardoons, I’m calling this a success.
In 1854 Henry David Thoreau wrote, “Our life is frittered away by detail” and called for “Simplicity, simplicity, simplicity! I say let your affairs be as two or three, and not a hundred or a thousand; instead of a milion count half a dozen, and keep your accounts on your thumb-nail. ”
It’s good advice for a busy parent, and it’s excellent advice for recessionary times. While not so many of us can uproot ourselves as radically Thoreau did, there is a lot to learn from his advice about self-sufficiency, living close to the land, and keeping scrupulous track of your accounts. Thoreau is, in fact, in some ways, the spiritual grandfather of the urban farming movement, which has a lot of lessons to teach us, even if you’re not ready to raise chickens in your backyard.
For my part, it’s spring in Northern California–or at least the vegetables think so. This means the markets are filled with seasonal things we can eat raw, and which go right to the table with a quick rinse: snap peas, baby carrots, English shelling peas, radishes, tender baby fennel, baby gem lettuces. Even young fava beans can be shelled and peeled and eaten raw, dipping as you go in olive oil in salt. We have cucumbers for slicing and a few early tomatoes, too. Artichokes get done with a simple steaming, as does the Bloomsdale spinach, which has a really meaty leaf and it is the only kind Ella and Finn will eat. And then there are the eggs: fresh, gorgeous, eggs, with bright yellow-orange yolks, which my kids will eat in any form they can get their hands on. I actually have to ration them, but that’s another story.
While I have to confess to liking labor-intensive things, like frying zucchini blossoms as often as I can, most school nights I want to live like Thoreau, which means dinner consists these days, as often as I can get away with it, with whole, raw, simple food. The good things about eating this way are legion: It’s fast, healthy, and economical. You can offer your kids a choice of 2 out of 3 things, and let them begin to self-monitor and make good choices about what they eat. Small individual pots or larger bowls of different colored and shaped vegetables looks really pretty on the table and satisfies a simple aesthetic urge in me. But eating this way also teaches children to eat real food that looks like real food. In this way, they learn to appreciate color, texture, shape, and the basic flavor of the food in front of them. They learn that fruits and vegetables have seasons, and that they taste best when eaten in that season. (Even Finn, who is only four, asked me last night “When it going to be pomegranite season again? I love pomegranites.” Next winter, I answered, and he was fine with that, as he knew there were strawberries waiting for him, and peaches and plums to come….).
Ella and Finn have lately developed an obsession with soft-cooked eggs, which they love to eat in the old-fashioned way: out of egg cups. (I told you, kids like mini-meals, things that are their size.) Three minutes in the boiling water, a cold rinse, and you have an elegant source of locally, humanely sourced protein accompanied by whatever I dig out of the vegetable bin.
The one thing I do to make it a little fancy, is provide a salt sampler. I have a salt problem, as in I collect salt the way my kids collect Japanese eraser buddies. (We all continue to have really low blood pressure, so health isn’t an issue.) In the center of the table, I placed about 5 or 6 of my salts, and let the kids pinch or sprinkle very small amounts onto their eggs as they ate them. We had Provence Salt, Black Cyprus Flakes, Red Hawaiian Salt, the gorgeous salmon-colored Murray salt, Sel Gris, even a smoked sea salt (in the middle) which Ella bravely sampled. The jars were a lovely present from a good friend, and the rest were purchased at Farmers Markets & Whole Foods.
From my kids point of view, there’s not a meal more satisfying. Certainly, the time will come when things get more complicated. So for now, this is another way to continue following Thoreau’s advice. Life really can begin at the table.
“Simplify, simplify. Instead of three meals a day, if it be necesary eat but one; instead of a hundred dishes, five; and reduce other things in proportion.”