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One summer when I was a kid, I made it my mission to find the best strawberry ice cream. I ate strawberry ice cream in New York and Connecticut and Massachusetts and New Jersey. I can’t remember which was my favorite, whether it was Haagen-Dazs or Baskin-Robbins or the scoop from the wooden shack on the edge of a cow pasture, but it doesn’t matter: it was the journey, as they say, not the destination.

This summer, having picked a few flats of strawberries back in May, I’ve been able to resume the search for the best strawberry ice cream, right in my kitchen. I made the first quart using fresh berries, and have made a few more batches since with more of that first harvest of strawberries, pulled out of the freezer and then roasted, pureed, or just thawed into a strawberry juice puddle. They’re all good, but this one — published in the wonderful Jenni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home — with its delicious roasted berries and tangy buttermilk, is my very favorite. Try it for your own ice cream journey.