Three-Bean Chili And . . .

Saturday, May 3, 2008 by Julie Cancio Harper.

I started my day yesterday by putting the chili on. This is a photo of the mirepoix: onions, carrots, and celery plus green pepper and three New Mexican dried chiles (seeds and stems removed, snipped with kitchen shears into small bits). Sauté in olive oil.

Next, I added minced garlic, cumin and oregano (Mexican oregano, if you have it). Then I moved the veggies to the outside edges of the stock pot, and in the center (where the heat is highest), I sautéed one pound of ground beef. I like the certified organic ground beef, but we each have to choose for ourselves. Or, skip it and keep the chili vegan. It’s fantastic that way as well. Or, if you prefer very meaty chili, kick up the quantity. One pound of ground beef to 4 cups of beans is a bean-heavy chili with an accent of beef. Which is what I like best. But it’s the cook’s choice, isn’t it? (Every time!)

I drained the beans in a colander, gave them a quick rinse, and added them to the stock pot. Here is the chili in progress:

Look at those beautiful beans!

Next, I added enough water to cover all the ingredients plus 1-inch more. Then I gave it a stir, put on the stock pot lid, checked that the flame was low, and walked away for an hour and a half.

Finally, I stirred in about 4 cups of crushed tomatoes. I buy the giant #10 cans at the wholesale club, so I’m not exactly sure how many smaller cans that would be. I like a lot of tomato in my chili, so adjust to your own taste.

I also added salt & pepper. I don’t add the salt until the beans are mostly cooked. I once read that beans that are salted at the beginning of the cooking process stay hard and never soften. I like firm beans, but they shouldn’t be crunchy, so I’ve always added the salt after an hour or more of cooking time. Since I’ve never done it any other way, I don’t know if this actually changes anything for the beans. I’ve also read conflicting opinions, so choose your own adventure.

I’m not sure how long the chili simmered before Eric and I broke down and ate — the aroma was maddening. I got distracted by the computer and anyway the passage of time gets a little fuzzy with me when I’m hungry.

This is the chili we ate on day 1:

I never want to gorge on the chili the first day because I know it will be even better tomorrow after a rest in the fridge overnight. So we each had a starter bowl of chili supplemented by a toasted cheese sandwich. Mmm. An excellent start.

But wait! We’ve arrived at Day 2: chili with brown rice and cheddar. This was dinner tonight:

Eric had only taken a few bites when he turned to ask me, “Is there more?”

This is the day the chili hits its stride. The broth flavors have melded. And yet the beans are still distinct. This is part of the joy of dried beans. The black beans are firm and the skin splits only when you bite down. The pintos are soft and yielding. The white beans (Great Northerns) are a bit in between.

I love texture and making chili with canned, precooked beans always leaves me feeling that the only statement the beans make (no matter what kind they are) is: “Moosh.” That’s it. I don’t find it inspiring.

It’s not that difficult to give dried beans a chance. And now that I have, I’m a convert!

There’s more life left in this chili. We could explore chili over macaroni (chilimac). And chili omelets. Chili and tortilla chips with guacamole. Chili burritos. Chili with salad (a.k.a. “taco salad”). Chili and fresh corn on the cob. Chili and sweet corn bread, biscuits, blueberry muffins.

Chili and . . . Any other suggestions?

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